| TXT-1 UPGRADES AND ADVICE PAGE | |
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WELCOME TO MY ADVICE PAGE, WHERE YOU CAN INFO ON WHAT PARTS TO UPGRADE ON YOUR TXT-1 I ALSO RECOMMEND LOOKING AT THE FOLLOWING LINKS FOR MORE INFO AND ADVICE ON THE SERIOUSLY COOL WORLD OF RC MONSTER TRUCKS:- TAMIYA EXTEME TRUCK TXT-1 OFFICIAL SITE Dr.DOUG'S TXT-1 FAQ RECOMMENDED INETRC CUSTOM PARTS AND UPGRADES GALORE SYSTEM BLOOD CLOD HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TAMIYA PARTS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED RC4WD EVEN MORE CUSTOM PARTS AND UPGRADES |
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| ALLOY SHOCKS This is one of the first upgrades you should make for several reasons. When you first run your truck you will instantly see that it leans over to one side; this is because the standard shocks are too soft and mushy to take all the weight of the truck, that and it is a fundamental design flaw; the torque of the motors cause the chassis to rotate in the opposite direction to which the motors are turning. The only way to fix this is to install stronger shock springs, or, like me, buy some alloy shocks that are adjustable. You can also try fitting longer springs, or even stretching the existing ones.
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| SEALED BEARINGS When you first get your truck, you will notice alot of brass bushing, which are used on all the rotating parts. I highly recommend replacing these with sealed bearings, which come in two main types;-Metal sealed bearings & rubber sealed bearings. Rubber sealed ones are easier to maintain, but can be a little tight to begin with, but will loosen up and make your truck run really smoothly. metal ones are cheaper, but need oiling a little more often, but will also greatly smoothen your trucks handling. If you do run the truck with the plain bushings, after a while open up the gear boxes and you will notice that they have shiny patches on them, this is caused by wear and will eventually cause the transmission to strain and shake itself to bits, but only if you run it hard or for long periods.
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NEW MOTORS
I've opted for a TRAXXAS HVMAXX, designed for the E-MAXX, but Im going to use it in my TXT-1 to give the truck much greater power, speed and run time ( since it uses two 7.2v batteries to power a brushless motor at 14.4v ). With standard gearing and two 3000mah batteries, my truck should capable of something like 20mph. UPDATE After I fitted the motor and speedo, I also bought a new radio (laser 6), and took the truck down town for a test drive. I can safely say the system performed brilliantly. Max speed is about 20mph with stock gearing, and the Esc/motor barely even got warm. If I really wanted to I could go from a 15 tooth pinion to a 17 or 20, but it really isnt necessary. For most applications 20mph is more than fast enough, plus the truck has tons of torque, resulting in blistering excelleration, super strong brakes, and easy wheelies. If anyone is thinking about buying a new motor/ speedo for their truck, then I think it would be worth investing in a HVMAXX. UPDATE Then again, you can never have too much speed, so I did fit a 17 tooth pinion, but that wasnt fast fast enough, so I got a 21 toother. Trouble was that with the larger pinion fitted it was such a tight fit the gears almost binded together. To fix this I had to use my dremel to lengthen the mounting slot slightly to allow the motor to tilt around a tiny bit more and thus the gears meshed together much more smoothly. However... after much thought I have decided to mount the motor in the other position, on the left hand side, to see if I can reduce the torque steer effect the longitudely mounted motor has IE: the body tilts over to one side under excelleration, causing the truck to veer off to the right as it thunders along. I will also fit a 20 tooth pinion to save hacking at the motor mounting plate anymore. UPDATE No, that still wasnt fast enough, plus the damn motor shook itself loose during the second run, so I had to call it a day on that session. UPDATE After a little experimenting I have found the perfect gear ratio for the new Emaxx transmission= 66/13. With this, some good batteries and a good running surface the truck is pushing 40, yes, 40MPH. Thats enough speed for me, since it tends to get very hairy trying to control such a big truck at those kinds of speeds. Sorted. |
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| WHEEL WIDENERS These are essential if you want to drive fast, because they add stability over rough terrain and when cornering at speed. These were actually the very first thing I ordered for my TXT-1, even before the radio gear! They add a full 1"1/4 to the width ( doesnt sound much, but you really appreciate it when turning sharply at high speed ), and increase stability a great deal. They also give the truck a better stance, being wider and meaner looking, sort-of. |
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HEAVY DUTY STEERING RODS
Even for a beginner it is quite obvious that the steering rods supplied with the truck are pathetic; Ive seen thicker cocktail sticks. If you dont want to bend them the first time you bump into a rock, I would highly recommend that you purchase a heavyduty set from either rc4wd.com, or inetrc.com. You can always tweak the length with small nuts or spare bushings/washers etc, so that your wheels are perfectly parallel. |
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| ALLOY SKIDPLATES I started out with some skids from VERTIGO PERFORMANCE, but Ive decided to get some beefier ones made by NEW ERA, since these cover the front of the lower bumber, and not just the bottom. Plus the ones I originally got were blue, so these new silver jobbies will look much smarter on my all-alloy truck. If you need to ask "why do I need skid plates?", just drive over a few rocks and curbs, and you'll soon see why.... |
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ALLOY STEERING KNUCKLES
This isnt so much a necessity, more a case of 'do I need these for how I drive my truck?'. If you are into hardcore rock crawling and offroad driving, then it probably would be a good idea to get some, if not, after a while the stock plastic knuckles can start to crack and split; mine have, and I dont do much hardcore driving at all. If on the other hand you only intend to drive around on tarmac or short grass, then its fine to keep the stock knuckles. The only reason to upgrade other than for performance and wear purposes, is 'cos they look cooler... |
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| METAL ROD ENDS Again, you only need to upgrade to metal rod ends if you do alot of hardcore driving. The reason is because the plastic rod ends only press onto the little ball joint thingies, and when you smack into rocks, or do jumps, the suspension cant always aborb the full force, so the rod ends tend to stretch and 'ping' off of the ball joints. With metal rod ends, the ball bit is fitted inside the rod end, and then this is screwed onto the chassis members etc. This way, the rods will never come lose from the chassis, and it will be much more durable. You can also purchase heavy duty nylon rod ends; these are almost as strong as alloy, plus they add contrast, not being the same colour as the chassis. |
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